Capdeville is the latest project (and first foray into food service) for the Lifestyle Revolution Group. The name derives from the location - sitting in the middle of the one block side street running from Camp to Magazine just behind the US Fifth Circuit Court of Appeals. Incidentally, the street was named after a former mayor of New Orleans. For you legal historians out there, the restaurant is actually located in the space which used to be McGlinchey Stafford's cafeteria.
Capdeville is labeled as "an American interpretation of a British social house." What this connotes to me is a place where one would be as comfortable having a bite for lunch as he would downing a pint after work, and having done both, I can attest to the accuracy of the description. Even if a few lunch beers are not on your Monday agenda, Capdeville is still a good place for a bite. The menu stretches beyond typical pub grub with some innovative originals, like fried red beans and rice. These savory calas have a crunchy exterior coating stuffed with creamy red beans, while the truffled mac and cheese is in the style of carbonara and fortified with edamame
But after 3 visits, the burgers have clearly distinguished themselves as the best choices on the menu, with each component of the utmost quality. The burgers are so good that Willy Wonka, my office's resident gourmand de ground beef, has dubbed it one of the city's best. The foundation is a beef patty which is moist and flavorful without being greasy, and the soft onion roll is a noticeable improvement from the typical styrofoam bun. The namesake Capdeville Burger (pictured above) tastes almost as good as it looks. An orthodox au poivre sauce, gruyere cheese and roasted aioli provide richness; bibb lettuce and thin strands of crispy fried onions give the burger a nice crunch. The Manchego La Mancha has a nice fruitiness from green tomato jam and proves that almost any dish improves with the addition of a gratuitous fried egg.
French fries are taken to new heights with variations from Spain (manchego and chorizo) to Canada (mozzarella curd and au poire sauce), but unfortunately the former are a bit too dry and the latter too soggy. Still, there is no denying the deliciousness of Capdeville's long, thin, crispy, handcut fries - especially with a side of roasted garlic aioli for dipping.
Not a bad way to start the week off on a full stomach.